These are our official JTX 6×4 ADR Compliant LED lights. This is a full car package and based upon your country in your address and your vehicle selection below we send what’s needed to make them legal and work plug and play. These are the lights that go into 80 series Landcruiser, the later model 60 series, also a lot of trucks and even cars from the 70’s and 80’s. They are called either 6×4 or 4×6 headlights and almost always twin rectangular light per side . The next size up is 5×7 and that’s typically just a single headlight application. The lights are ADR Compliant as long as coloured halos aren’t used on the road. (white and amber are compliant) The DRL Halo is really bright even in full sun light and it goes all the way around the light – not just up the sides. With the white/amber version, the DRL Halo will turn off and flash Amber when indicating, two seconds after indicating the DRL comes back on. All other combinations don’t have an indicator option. The light output is amazing. In High Beam mode the low beam stays on – this is a setting within the light to ensure maximum brightness in high beam. They are indestructible. They come with all the wiring required for your car. They are made by us here in Melbourne. Always consider buying Australian Made You get an ADR statement sheet that covers all of Australia and according to Qld Dept Transport they are the only ADR Compliant light. ADR refers to Lumens and Lumens can not readilly be measured and so the authorities need a one to one communication with the manufacturer (not the importer) as to the components – they said they are not about to call China and by virtue of the fact we build the lights here in Aus they were able to have that confirmation. Specs: Headlight amp draw: 3A each. Halo amp draw: 0.35A each. Faceplate – Chrome or Black – Choose between chrome or black face. Black looks more modern wehere as Chrome looks more traditional. There is n0 differemce in performance or brightness of light – the light is cast through projector lenses and not reflector style. DRL Halo Options – We offer you either no halo for those who don’t want the bling or 2 colours. The most common is White and Amber. Hook the Amber up to your indicators so the Halo flashes amber when you are indicating. Or you can have white for the road and an alternate colour for when showing off or wheeling in the bush – Red, Blue, Green or Purple and our instruction sheet explains how to set up a 3 way switch to flick between white/off/colour. Vehicle Type – There are different wiring solutions needed for different vehicles and we have your back on this. To make your life easy we simply ask about what type of vehicle you have rather than how you need the wiring. Trucks and early cars (non Toyota) have conventional wiring so our lights are plug and play without wiring needs. No wiring mods and so no need to know if you are 12v or 24v. Every Toyota – no matter year or type has negative switching so we need to switch the polarity and because hi/lo have 3 wires you can’t just flip the plugs. They also need to sense a load to make the blue hi beam dash light come on and also the trigger for the spot lights in the aux power box in the engine bay too. But wait there’s more – if you are running a DRL Halo option those need an earth and because Toyota turn light on by connecting the earth there is none when lights are off so Halo wont otherwose work without a harness. So there’s a bit going on but leave that to us. Just choose the vehicle type and we look after the rest. 80 series with halo – your halo needs an earth, you need to switch polarity and you need to load up the system to make the blue hi beam light work. You get the JTX Super loom that does all 4 lights and solves all of those issues. This super loom comes standard with all 4 lights working in low beam – if you want to dedicate the inner lights to just high beam then simply disconnect the top wire at the plug of the harness going to the inner light. 80 series going without Halo – if you are not running the halo option you dont need an earth for the halo and so you get away with just the JTX Load modules – one per light. These are more than just canbus that loads up the system as they have the smarts internally to switch polarity as well. 60 series are even more complicated because they hold a charge longer so the high beams wont normally turn off straight away. These guys get a 2 light harness for low beam and a 2 light harness for high beam as well as 4 x JTX Load modules – one per factory light socket. We then need to know if you have 12V or 24V as there are quite a few 24V 60’s out there. The lights are same but the wiring parts need to be changed. Optional extras … If you plan on doing any water crossings or driving in wet conditions, you may wish to consider our breather kit, so you can avoid moisture getting into the headlights. The lights need to breath to stop condensation. They are mostly waterproof but if you are going to run them hot than dunk them in cold deep water we have a solution with the breather kit. It’s like a diff breather kit but for the lights. We now also have a JTX wiring kit for the DRL Halo. This can save 2 hours of work by making the White and Amber halo plug into your car’s park light and indicator systems. We have a RGB option and that’s a separate listing – Black face with Halo that can be controlled by an app on your phone. These dont flash amber when indicating and the RGB part is technically not legal (ok if RGB is off) but heaps of guys want them for effect. We can do yellow face covers instead of clear for Fog or Dust. A separate listing for these. We now also have a 100% complete conversion kit for the 1 piece sahara style light to the quad lights with DRL Halo – includes mounting frames, buckets, bezel surrounds, side lights and all the fixtures. Also a separate listing complete with lights. We also have headlight covers – genuine Toyota
Warranty policy
All products are backed by unlimited mileage and one (1) Year, Limited Warranty. Please read terms and conditions for full description.
Before fitting the new part, you MUST find the reason why turbocharger FAILED and CORRECT it. Fitting a new turbo will only result the same failure. Less than 10% of turbocharger failures, are due to the turbo itself, in most cases failures are caused by outside influence. Most common causes of consequential failure (NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY) are listed below. All new Kott Turbo Works products are backed by a one (1) Year Limited Warranty. The one (1) Year Limited Warranty covers all manufacturer defects. Warranty does not cover labor recovery, accommodation, or any other costs. Turbochargers must be returned for a detailed warranty inspection. Any modification to the product voids the one (1) Year Limited Warranty. The one (1) Year Limited Warranty does not cover :
- Failure to provide installation documents from repair facility. (Self/parking lot installs)
- Failure to perform and document scheduled maintenance on time.
- Seaping/leaking oil out of compression outlet, caused by excesive BLOW BY or clogged crankcase FILTER.
- Failures due to Improper installation or maintenance, restricted oil feed pipe, damaged oil pump, low oil level, metal particles or carbon present, faulty DPF filters and/or EGR valves, contaminated lubricant, oil starvation.
- Using liquid gasket or sealing compounds
- White deposit present on exhaust parts due to excessive engine oil burn.
- Over speeding, defective intercooler and or compression piping, stuck VGT, Remap
- Foreign object and physical damage, defective or dirty air filter and supply pipes.
Due to the intricacies involved in warranty process and the industry standard protocol regarding the inspection of parts and turnaround time, we will not offer free replacements prior to full inspection and analysis. To minimize potential downtime for our customers, we strongly recommend the purchase of replacement parts as a proactive measure. We kindly request your understanding in this matter.
Core return
Cores must be returned in undamaged shipping conditions, if damage occurs during shipping, due to poor packaging or other reasons we reserve the right to prorate or forfeit core refund at our discretion.
Cores must be returned within 60 days for full core refund and it has to meet all criteria, after that core refund will be at KTW discretion. Upon receiving your good core, we will issue a refund within a 1 week period. All cores are subject to inspection upon arrival. Any returned item with physical damage will result in denial of return credit or refund. The Following are examples of Turbos that will NOT be refunded:
- Turbochargers: Bent or broken anything except turbine shaft. Bent, broken or damaged housing.
- Core has to be sent with copy of purchase order, in order to know for which turbo we have to issue the refund, KTW won’t know who returned it, without proper documentation.
- Core must be like-for-like.
We provide free return shipping using a FREE FedEx return label to return the core back to us, from most of the locations in the US (excluding Alaska, Hawaii, and Puerto Rico).
Shipping and returns
We use FedEx ground for shipping, contact us for expedited service, or other special arrangements.
We usually ship the same day, unless item is out of stock due to local in store purchase, you can call/text us at 331-888-8726 to check availability and place 12 hours hold status on item.
If your order has shipped, the return and restocking fee is 20%. Customer must pay for return shipping. Shipping from when the product was sent out is not refunded as that cost has been spent and is unrecoverable. Returns are only allowed for 14 days from post marked day, after that only store credit can be allowed at our discretion, not guaranteed.
Installation tips
Most common misdiagnosis.
Oil leaks can be caused by a variety of factors, the main factor being incorrect pressure within the compressor and turbine housings, which is usually caused by:
- Blockages to the air intake filter and/or hoses.
- Excessive crank case pressure (blow-by from worn piston rings/bores)
- Blockages in the exhaust system
- Repeated hot engine shutdowns leading to carbon deposits (coke) in the centre housing
- Dirty crankcase filter
- Use of silicon sealant / incorrect gasket, twisted, bent or trapped oil return pipe
Most common turbocharger failure causes on semi trucks:
- Foreign object damage – Broken off engine components, e.g. valves (D13), fragments of damaged pistons or injector tips, EGR block off plates.
- Oil contamination – High carbon build up present in the engine can quickly contaminate new oil, contamination of new oil while servicing.
- Degrading oil – excessive temperatures or extended service intervals.
- Internal engine leaks – fuel or coolant mixing with oil supply.
- Turbocharger overspeeding – Engine modifications including ‘chipping’ or ‘over-fuelling, bad program installed if EGR/DPF delete was performed, worn injectors. Tear in the air hose or the hose becoming completely detached. Restrictions in the air intake filter or pipe work. Air leaks between compressor and engine.
- Lack of lubrication –
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- Engine left idle for long periods, especially during cold weather
- Oil feed pipes containing bends or kinks
- Lack of maintenance, oil change intervals should be shortened as engine gets old.
- Insufficient oil in the sump
- Incorrect oil inlet gasket used leading to restriction in oil supply
- Build-up (coking) / carbon deposits in the oil feed pipe
- Applying silicone to the oil inlet gasket causing blockages
- Sludge or coke build up in bearing housing from hot shutdowns
- Failure to prime the turbo with oil before initial run